The drive
From Las Vegas take I-15 north for 33 miles to exit 75 (Valley of Fire Highway), then 17 miles east into the park. Total drive time is about 55 minutes. No public transit reaches the park. Tours run about $115 per person from the Strip, but renting a car for $55 a day and driving yourself gives you flexibility for the golden hour shots.
Gas up in Vegas or at the Moapa Travel Plaza on I-15. Inside the park there is nothing.
What to hike
Fire Wave is the signature trail, 1.5 miles round trip through striped pink and white sandstone. Park at lot 3 on Mouse's Tank Road. White Domes is a 1.1-mile loop through a slot canyon and past a film set from a 1966 movie. Elephant Rock is a 10-minute stroll from the east entrance. Skip Rainbow Vista in the middle of the day; the light is flat.
Best photography: Fire Wave at 4pm to sunset in winter, 6pm to sunset in summer.
Practical bits
Entry is $15 per Nevada-plated vehicle, $25 for out-of-state, cash or card at the entrance station. Restrooms exist at the visitor center and the campgrounds, otherwise it is desert. Cell service is patchy; download offline maps. In summer, do not hike after 10am; ambient temperature hits 115F and there is zero shade on Fire Wave.
Good to know
Is Valley of Fire better than Red Rock Canyon?+
Different. Valley of Fire has more dramatic color and better slot canyons; Red Rock is closer to Vegas and has more hiking miles. For photographers, Valley of Fire wins.
Can I camp at Valley of Fire?+
Yes, two campgrounds with 72 sites at $25 a night, first-come. Atlatl Rock Campground has hookups, Arch Rock is more scenic and tent-only.
How long do I need at Valley of Fire?+
Four hours minimum to hit Fire Wave, White Domes, and the visitor center. A full day if you want to shoot sunset.
Are there restaurants nearby?+
The Inside Scoop in Overton, 15 minutes north, does burgers and shakes for $12. Otherwise the closest options are back in Las Vegas or at the Moapa Paiute travel plaza.